Bardsey can be seen from Bryn Canaid, which sits in an unparalleled position near the coast, which is honeycombed by hidden coves and bordered by dramatic sea. Built at some stage in the 19th century on the site of a much older structure, Bryn Canaid is a traditional croglofft cottage. The house was home to the 19th-century herbalist Anne Griffiths; records of her flower tinctures are held in the National Museum of Wales. Bryn Canaid was extended in the 20th century and has since been masterfully renovated by its most recent custodians.
The Grand Tour
The house sits on the edge of Uwchmynydd (‘Under Mountain’), and is approached by a scenic country road. Its lateral silhouette lies low in its verdant surroundings; part exposed stone, part white-washed, it has a traditional look joyfully offset by grassy-green details.
There are three points of entry on either length of the building; one opens to a living room, the second to the rear hallway, and the third to the kitchen. The living room and kitchen are marvellous spaces with hearty flagstone floors and freestanding rustic units. Off-white walls and a pitched roofline create an exaggerated feel of volume.
The kitchen gives way to the living room. A vaulted mezzanine - the traditional croglofft - sits above, along with exposed timber trusses. At the further end is a log-burning stove in a former inglenook fireplace, a cosy focal point on winter nights. All the windows on the south side of the building face out to Bardsey Island, while windows to the north and west look over the encircling countryside.
At the other end of the rear hallway are two bedrooms, both fitted with pure wool carpet and with restorative views. The bathroom has a considered finish, with a walk-in shower and large-format ceramic tiles.
Outdoor Space
The garden that surrounds the house visually merges with the landscape beyond, a network of ancient fields marked by remnants of dry stone walls. The expansive seascapes form an ever-changing backdrop. A gravel-laid space beside the house has been created to place a pair of deckchairs and breathe in the coastal air.
Out and About
Because of the location close to the end of a green lane, even in high season, there are very few cars; and Bryn Canaid remains peaceful, as only a few walkers pass by. It is exceptionally rare to find a Welsh Longhouse in a coastal position as fine and private as this.
Bryn Canaid sits close to Mynydd Mawr, a popular spot for sunset walks and birdspotting. The neighbouring land is owned by the National Trust. A green lane next to the house runs down to the coastal path and secret coves; here, seals and dolphins can be spotted. On a clear day, the Wicklow Mountains can be seen on the horizon, and on clear nights, the views of the moon or the stars are astounding.
The ferry to Bardsey Island can be caught at Porth Meudwy, on fine days between March and October. The island is rich in important archaeological sites, including the 13th-Century ruins of St Mary’s Abbey. It is a wonderful place to spot seals, puffins and a variety of other avian species.
There are also some sandy beaches nearby, including the sandy Traeth Aberdaron and Whistling Sands (Porthor). The cliffs of Trwyn Maen Melyn are home to St Mary’s Well, described by the Guardian as “one of the most extraordinary holy sites in Britain”.
The home serves as an ideal base from which to explore the charming local villages such as Aberdaron, Llanbedrog and Porth Dinllaen. Slightly further afield, Porth Meirion is easily reached by car. Saint Hwywn church in Aberdaron is known for its historical links to the poet RS Thomas, who once served there as a minister. Plas Yn Rhiw is a National Trust property and a real hidden gem: a marvellous Jacobean house, it was restored and inhabited by the renowned Keating sisters.
Two miles to the north of the cottage is the cafe Plas Carmel, in Anelog, which serves great coffee and fresh buckwheat pancakes. Nearby, there is also the roundhouse at Felin Uchaf, which hosts evenings of storytelling and grows and sells garden vegetables.
Pwllheli is the nearest town and is a pleasant 15-mile drive away. Pwllheli train station is the terminus of the Cambrian Coast line, frequently cited as being the most scenic railway line in the UK, and provides links to Shrewsbury, Aberystwyth and Machynlleth. The A499 and A497 can be joined in Pwllheli.
Council Tax Band: C, although please note that business rates currently apply.